What we include in a floor tile installation
Demo of existing flooring when needed, substrate evaluation, leveling, crack isolation or uncoupling membrane when the slab or subfloor calls for it, tile set in the right thinset, grout, and transitions to adjacent flooring.
- Subfloor flatness check (especially for large-format)
- Self-leveling underlayment when needed
- Crack isolation on slabs
- Uncoupling membrane on plank subfloors
- Clean transitions at thresholds
Where floor tile is common in Long Island homes
Bathrooms, kitchens, mudrooms, laundry rooms, entryways, sunrooms, basements, and increasingly through open-concept main floors as large-format porcelain becomes more popular.
Materials for floor tile
Porcelain is the most durable choice and the standard for floors. Ceramic works in lower-traffic areas. Natural stone needs sealing and is more maintenance. Large-format porcelain (24x24 and up) gives a modern look but demands extremely flat substrate.
Why floor tile cracks (and how we prevent it)
Floor tile cracks because something moved underneath it — a flexing subfloor, a hairline crack in a slab, or thinset that did not fully bond. We address all three with proper substrate prep, the right membrane, and back-buttered tile when needed.
